Copyright 2010-2011 Updated December 9, 2011 Ultralawn, Inc. 1055 East 260th Street Euclid, Ohio  44132 (216) 731-7756 (440) 951-3738 About • Lawn Care • Trees/Shrubs • Pest Barrier • Questions • Contact  Lawn Care   We welcome the opportunity to answer your questions Lawn Renovation   Lawns sometimes decline over a period of years to the point where they cannot be nurtured back to an acceptable level of quality using standard practices such as fertilizing, proper watering, etc. The lawn may be in poor condition because improper grasses were used initially or foreign grasses have been introduced. Overuse, neglect, extensive thatch accumulation, disease, insect damage, or heavy infestations of weeds are other reasons to renovate. Under circumstances such as these, renovation of the lawn may be necessary. The process of renovating may be as basic as simply reseeding bare spots, or as involved as killing off the entire lawn, followed by reseeding. Timing Renovation during late summer (August 15 - September 15) generally yields the best results. Minimal weed competition as well as cooler temperatures and ample rainfall usually follow late summer renovation, thus providing a favorable environment for new seedlings. Late summer seeding must be accomplished early enough to allow the grass to become well established before the start of cold weather in order to increase winter survival. Renovation may be attempted during spring if absolutely necessary. As timing approaches late spring, however, extensive weed competition coupled with summer drought and heat stress reduces the probability of success. Renovation Procedure The following procedure is designed for renovation of large areas of turf and/or entire lawns. If only a few small spots require reseeding, steps 2 and 3 may be omitted. ~Correct whatever factors caused the lawn to deteriorate to the point of needing renovation. Re-contour the lawn if necessary, improve drainage, eliminate excessive shade, etc. Renovation will only yield temporary improvement unless the original cause of poor quality is remedied. ~Kill off all vegetation. This can be achieved by applying Roundup to the entire surface that you wish to reseed. It may be worthwhile to permit the lawn to grow slightly higher than normal prior to total kill to allow all vegetation to grow longer, thus producing more leaf area for better herbicide uptake and control. Wait 10 to 14 days following herbicide application before proceeding with renovation in order to allow for complete herbicide uptake and allow any chemical residues in the soil to dissipate. Always follow label recommendations when using herbicides. Specific information concerning rate of application, weeds controlled, and waiting period before reseeding is stated on the label. ~Mow the entire area as low as possible (1/2 to 3/4 inch) and remove all debris. If there is an appreciable accumulation of thatch (more than 1/2 inch), remove it at this time using a dethatcher. A dethatcher is a power- driven machine similar to a lawn mower, but with a series of vertical blades or tines which rotate on a horizontal shaft to remove surface debris and thatch. Several passes over the area will be needed to achieve desired results. Remove all debris created by this operation. ~Cultivate the soil in order to assure good seed-to-soil contact. This is an important step, since seed broadcast onto a lawn without proper cultivation will not survive. Cultivate using a dethatcher set to penetrate the soil to a depth of about 1/4 inch, exposing enough soil to provide a good seedbed for establishment. On small areas, a garden rake can be used to loosen soil to the proper depth.   ~Fertilize and lime (if necessary). Incorporate the materials into the soil at this time. Proper soil fertility and pH are essential for successful renovation. "Starter" fertilizers that contain a substantial amount of phosphorous should be purchased for proper seed growth.   ~Following cultivation and fertilizer application, the lawn is ready to be seeded. Seed of a species similar to that existing in the lawn should be used unless improper species selection was the original cause of poor quality. Seed should be applied uniformly over the area to be renovated. In order to insure uniform coverage, apply the seed in two directions. Enough seed should be applied to provide 15 to 25 seeds per square inch. For larger areas, consider renting a powered slit seeder. ~Rake lightly following seeding with a leaf rake to work the seed into the soil to a depth of about 1/4 inch. The area should then be rolled to ensure good seed-to-soil contact. If the area being renovated is on a slope, apply a weed- free mulch to prevent erosion. Post Planting Care ~Water lightly and frequently, two to three times per day to keep the seed bed damp during the period of germination and establishment. The duration of germination and establishment will vary among grass species but will probably range from four to six weeks, with perennial rye grass being the fastest species to establish and Kentucky bluegrass the slowest. Once the seedling have established to a height of 1 ¼”-1 ¾” begin mowing the lawn on a regular this will increase growth and thickness to the turf.   ~Begin a balanced fertilizer program to provide 1/2 to 1 lb. of nitrogen per 1000 sq. feet when seedlings are 6 to 8 weeks old. This will enhance growth and hasten the recovery of the lawn to the quality you desire. Once the lawn has been mowed at least 3 times weed control can then be applied to the surface.